CATO wrote:I was going to revert with the below, but not knowing which internal relay you are intending to untilise throws a variable into the mix.
--------------------------------------------SinfulDarkLord wrote:CATO wrote:A quick 30 sec glace, it looks the same as my diags... (But please check and verify yourself)
Pin 6 thermostat to pin 4 SSR (Negative)
Pin 8 thermostat to pin 3 SSR (Positive 12V)
You are correct, but my model has the output relay. I assume that configuration would still be correct, however I assume that a wire needs to go from Pin 7 to Pin 8 to complete the circuit when the relay in the thermostat turns on.
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Very sorry I misunderstood (I did say a 30 second look), it's one or the other configurations but not both.
From the schematic you provided, I'm assuming that the thermostat will not be able to provide the extra low voltage required to switch the SSR, so I think you have 2 options, 1, swap out the thermostat for one that can provide the extra low voltage to drive the SSR, or 2, remove the SSR from the circuit and have the thermostats relay switch the load (caveat - the relay needs to be rated at 110 volts and have a higher current rating than the load you intend to switch). If the load is greater than the rated current of the relay, then you will need a contactor as stated previously.
To utilise the internal relay to switch the load (110 volts) you need to connect the "Commom" (pin 7) to the active supply voltage (110 volts) and the "N/O" (pin 8.) to the load (power outlet active pin), this becomes the active switch wire..
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Yes good point, what is the output relay in the thermostat rated at? How many volts and amps?
This will determine if you need a external relay and what sort.